Dear Customers,

in order to ensure the high quality of our products and their failure-free functioning, we use materials of the highest quality and the production process is controlled at every stage. To ensure the smooth function of the WC pre-wall frames and valves, please follow the instructions for assembly and servicing.

However, we encourage you to read the following tips and recommendations, which you should pay particular attention to during installation and use of our products.

During the installation of sanitary facilities, care should be taken to ensure their proper protection against damage and contamination. Their source can be the installation of the pre-wall frame installation itself, as well as other renovation works performed in the room. Therefore, a tunnel cover should be used to prevent contaminants such as adhesive mortar, dust, debris and rubble from entering the cistern. You should also cover the stubs.


• When adjusting the height of the frame, take into account the mounting height of the WC bowl and possibly the additional floor screed after the installation of the frame. If you plan one, increase the setting height by its planned thickness.

• Before installing the pre-wall for the fixing frame, check whether the cistern, valves, and connections are tight, as well as whether the frame’s attachment to the wall and ground is stable.

• As the fixing frame is not a load-bearing structure for the pre-wall of the set, the plasterboards must not be fixed directly to the frame. Doing so could damage the cistern.

Watch our video tutorial on installing a WC pre-wall frame


• Before connecting the fill valve, first flush the system to remove any debris that may be present. The problem is particularly troublesome in newly inhabited buildings, where some installation and piping works are still going on. Repairs to the water mains, pipe replacements and breaks in the water supply can also be the cause of smaller or larger particles of dirt appearing in the system, resulting in strainer clogs.

• When assembling the hose, it is important to screw on the hose nut carefully so that the thread clearly “slips” into place. Otherwise, the hose seal will not be set parallel to the circumference of the valve spigot and leakage will occur.

• Do not twist the hose when tightening it to the shut-off valve or fill valve. You have to hold it while tightening the other end. A twisted, stretched hose will tend to unfasten and rotate the valve spigot. It can push the float against the front or back wall and lock up, and the valve may not close or open.

• Sealing. According to the standard, only sealing to the face of the fill valve spigot should be used – sealing on the thread is not permitted, as this is a straight thread, and not a tapered one.

• The fill valve should be engaged on hooks so that the valve float can move freely, i.e. there should be a sufficient distance from the cistern walls of approx. 1 cm (check by inserting fingers).

• According to the manual, the shut-off valve must be mounted with the discharge port (to the hose) in an upstream-front or upstream-rear direction – the hose must not intertwine with or lie on top of the lever assembly components. This will also make it difficult to remove or insert the drain valve.

• Water dripping on the valve body during filling is normal in all valves with hydrodynamic closure (a small amount of water must escape through the control opening when the valve is open).

• Due to the quality of water which causes lime scale to build up on the membrane of the fill valve, it is advisable to follow the instructions for servicing the product consisting in cleaning the valve components such as membrane, membrane cover (ideal clearance), guide and strainer under running water.

• In the case of the ZN3 fill valve, please note that the filling level change is set by step adjustment. If you try to adjust smoothly with the adjusting screw, the valve lever plugs the control hole and the valve stops filling.

• When installing the fill valve in the cistern, care must be taken not to push in the overflow tube of the flush valve, as this changes the position of the right valve pull-rod, and the lever system may hold the flush valve not tightly-closed or does not allow the water column in the tank to fully press the seal against the prism in the bottom of the tank, and this causes water to leak from the tank into the wall hung bowl. The  holes of the flush valve pull-rods must be at the same level.

• Care should be taken when installing the fill valve not to push on the left pull-rod, as this can cause the bottom float catch to partially disengage – the user will only have “big” water, as the bottom float will always work.

• Remember also that the height of the overflow pipe fixed for a given tank must not be changed – it has a dedicated valve.

Watch our video tutorial on how to connect a frame to the plumbing and how to fit a bowl


• The flush valve should be, due to the quality of the water, serviced periodically, especially the gasket, on which lime scale can build up and prevent the gasket from adhering properly to the prism, e.g. when a speck of sediment breaks off and sticks into the gasket at the point of adherence to the prism, thus causing leaks.

• Push rods. In order for the WC set to function properly, it is necessary to cut the push rods correctly when assembling the button plate. If the push rods are left uncut or cut incorrectly, they can block the lever mechanism, causing leaks. Push rods that are too long can get caught in the pull-rod clevises and the button cannot be pushed in.  Raised when flushing is triggered, the pull-rods can get suspended on a push rod that is too long. First, adjust the clearance (~1 mm) between the right push rod and the right button, and then follow by adjusting the left push rod. If you set it too tight, the right pull-rod can get suspended, which will result in a leak.

Watch our video tutorial on how to install button plates


• When assembling a wall hung toilet bowl on a frame, pay attention to follow the manual to cut the connecting stubs correctly – too long stubs can push in a flush pipe, causing cistern leakage (not cutting the stubs to size can even damage a tank) and water seeping into the toilet bowl.

• Moisten the stubs with a jointing lubricant (never with soap) – dishwashing liquid is acceptable. The stubs should not be pushed, but “screwed” into the flush pipe and drain elbow.

• When assembling the toilet bowl, first “screw” the cut stubs into the flush pipe and drain elbow, and then mount the bowl onto them.

• Use clear plumbing silicone for the bowl with a glaze drop flush stub.


Watch our video tutorial on how to remove the fill and flush valves, and what to clean